Death Valley: A Dash to Panamint Springs (and a Tow)

When Holly’s last post ended, we were zipping across Death Valley in a van without a working alternator. We turned off all possible accessories and did our best to conserve battery voltage as we hustled back to our campsite near Furnace Creek. After much tense gauge-watching, we finally arrived. (Fun fact: A VW Eurovan can run on 11.3 volts.) I had a spare voltage regulator on hand, and set about swapping it in, in the hopes that it might get us on the road again.

When I pulled the old one, there were some signs that the alternator was in rough shape, but the new regulator seemed to do the trick — the van was charging again during some brief tests around the “neighborhood”. It would’ve been nice to have a new alternator to play it safe, but tracking one down in Death Valley was a challenge: There were no car parts places for 70 miles, and while we had a bit of cell phone signal, we didn’t have internet access to help figure out who to call. The mechanic at the small garage in Furnace Creek offered to ferry a part to me if I could find one in Pahrump, NV, but none of the parts places there had one in stock.

In the end, we decided to hit the road the following morning and get to the west side of the park if we could. We had reservations at Legoland in a couple of days and needed to start making some progress. Plus, getting out of the park would bring us closer to car parts if the need arose.

The next day started out well. The van was charging, and sprits were high. Things were going so well that we decided to make a stop at the old Harmony Borax Works to see the remains of the borax-processing plant there, and a pair of old borax carts.

Unfortunately, the alternator stopped working again shortly after the stop. We’d planned ahead this time: I had disconnected the always-on headlights to they wouldn’t consume power, and had done some rewiring to combine the camper’s auxiliary battery with the starter battery to buy us some extra range. We made a dash for Panamint Springs, near the west entrance to the park, monitoring the voltage as we went. We were confident we could make it that far, and thought for a while we might make it out of the park and back to civilization if things went well. Power consumption increased as we neared Panamint Springs though, so we played it safe and decided to stop there to re-evaluate.

There’s a campground and RV park in Panamint Springs, and we were able to get a site and settle in while we planned our next move. Unfortunately, we didn’t have any phone service there at all. We learned from the kid behind the counter at the general store that there was no way to get car parts or service there, and no bus service or car rentals that might let me go retrieve an alternator. In the end, after paying a small fortune to borrow the satellite phone at the general store, we decided to call AAA and have them tow us to Ridgecrest, CA, 75 miles away — the nearest town large enough to have auto parts and services. Less than two hours later, Al was there to haul us and the van out of the park. (And, as an added bonus, a roadrunner kept us company while we waited.)

We did’t have much of a chance to research motels, but asked Al to drop us at the Motel 6 in Ridgecrest — chosen both because it had coin-operated laundry services and a “year-round outdoor pool”. If ever in Ridgecrest, take our advice and avoid the Motel 6. We’ve stayed in some grim motels, but this one’s near the top (bottom?) of the list. They did in fact have laundry services though, which was a big plus. And, to be fair, the pool was outdoor year-round. The ice wasn’t quite thick enough for skating though.

A few quick phone calls and we were in luck! The local NAPA had an alternator in stock for our van! (It was lower output than the old one, but would get us back on the road.) It was too late (and too cold) to make any progress that evening, but I had them put my name on it. The next morning it was 27 degrees out when we got up, and not much warmer than that when I got to NAPA and started replacing the alternator, after dropping Holly and the kids at a Starbucks to hang out and do homework. But by mid-morning we were back on the road and heading in the direction of Legoland!

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Death Valley: Ubehebe Crater and an unfortunate series of events…

The night after our epic hike through Golden Canyon, I tweaked my back.  It was BAD…and by bedtime, I was out of commission. The next morning, I had such excruciating pain, I needed help getting dressed and standing up! I thought we were sunk, but after taking some anti-inflammatories, finding a comfortable position, and resting for the morning, I was back in business, and at least able to get around pain-free and do some walking.

We decided to spend that day sightseeing from the car and only do short interpretive trails. No big hikes today. Plus it was COLD! (around freezing when we woke up that morning, and super windy) So we headed north to Ubehebe Crater.

This place was really quite something to behold, but as I said, it was COLD! And WINDY! So we admired the crater for a few seconds, then piled back into the car to drive back.

My back was feeling better, and we thought we’d hit a couple of interpretive trails on the way back to the campsite, but…the car battery stopped charging. Brad has all manner of gizmos and one of them tells us the voltage of the car battery constantly as we drive.  Well, the voltage was going down quickly, and we had an hour’s drive left, so we high-tailed it back, hoping we wouldn’t be stranded in Death Valley, in the middle of nowhere! I’ll let Brad finish the story…

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Death Valley: Badwater Basin

After our epic hike through Golden Canyon, we drove a little south to visit Badwater Basin, the lowest point in Death Valley NP and also in North America.  The basin, which is covered in salt for miles around, lies 282 feet BELOW sea level. Charlie thought this was very interesting, and wanted to hike all the way out to the end of the trail to view the expanse of salt flats. He and Brad ventured out while Flora and I took a little time to relax in the van. They noted the interesting patterns in the earth and sand and salt, and how those patterns changed as the mixture of earth to salt also changed.

Notice the sign way up the mountain side.  It says “Sea Level”.

On our drive home from visiting Badwater, we enjoyed a gorgeous sunset.

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Death Valley: Golden Canyon and Red Cathedral

On our first full day in Death Valley N.P., we opted to do a loop hike through Golden Canyon and Gower’s Gulch, sometimes referred to as the “Badlands Loop” route.  It was about a 6-mile hike by the time we had finished, and the kids were pooped, but did great and really enjoyed it (except for the long incline in the middle…) Luckily, the pit toilet at the start of this trail was one of the few that was open and maintained during the shutdown.

This was one of the sites we know they did some filming for Star Wars, so the kids kept a lookout for familiar views.

After clambering through some narrow spaces and climbing a bit, we arrived at Red Cathedral, a wall at the end of the canyon made up of deep red colored rock.  We were able to climb up to a high point and view the valley beyond the canyon, although it took some courage and some steady footing!

After carefully making our way back down from our perch, we turned up the trail and made our way over to Gower’s Gulch.

Charlie wasn’t too fond of the incline as we had to traverse over a ridge.

Gower’s Gulch

Our trail opened up at the mouth of the gulch to reveal an amazing view. Great finish to a spectacular hike. One of the best we’ve done as a family.

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From Desert Oasis to Death Valley

We left the lush oasis of Palm Springs on Jan. 30th to brave the wilds of Death Valley National Park. We were excited to spend New Year’s Eve there and catch a glimpse of the night sky in a place that is known to afford great stargazing without lots of light pollution. What we didn’t realize was how incredible the daytime views throughout the park can be as well.

We read up on all the sites in the park where Star Wars was filmed (the original!), and we decided to hike a few of those areas in hopes of catching a glimpse of a bit of Tatooine. On our first night there, we stayed at a boring and sparse RV park since it was privately owned and we could make a reservation (this was during the government shutdown, and NPS campgrounds were not taking reservations). Anyway, to pass the evening in this not-very-interesting campsite, we hunkered down in the van and enjoyed an evening of Star Wars and popcorn.

We decided to stay near the Furnace Creek area for our first couple of days, since there were many sites nearby that were of interest, and we were so happy to learn that the visitor’s center there was open! Turns out that a local nonprofit (a historical society, I think) was providing grant money to fund the staffing of the visitor center during the government shutdown, so there were rangers to talk to, exhibits to see, stuff to purchase, and clean bathrooms to use! We spent a little money in the gift shop and made  donation to show our appreciation.

No fees were collected during the shutdown.

The high temperatures were only in the 60s while we were there…

On our second and third nights in the park, we were able to snag a spot at the Texas Springs Campground, just up the hill from the Furnace Creek Visitor Center. It was the nicest campsite we’ve had so far on this trip! We had views over the valley and across to the Panimint Range (darn – we didn’t take a photo of the daytime view!) and at night, we were treated to spectacular stargazing.

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UC Riverside Botanic Gardens

I was missing trees and green things that aren’t sharp and pointy.  We’d been in the desert for about 2 weeks and we were about to head to Death Valley. I needed to see some trees (not palm trees) and lush foliage. So, I searched the ol’ google maps for a garden, and UC Riverside showed up as a little over one hour’s drive from where we were staying.

So we took the day and drove to Riverside.  Lo and behold, we found ourselves a truly amazing garden, with the added bonus of several miles of trails to allow us to get some movement into our day. I HIGHLY recommend a visit if you are in the area.  This is a beautiful place. (And FREE admission!)

The trails wind through several different types of ecosystems, and we started with the North American desert, displaying an astonishing array of cacti.

There was also a rose garden (with roses IN BLOOM AT NEW YEARS!)

and a tranquil, jungle-like dome structure filled with tropical vines and palms and banana trees (or that’s what they looked like to me).   sidebar: Flora is sporting blue tips on her ponytail…and I think it works.

Then we walked through a rocky hillside, into an herb garden and a grove of oak trees, then through the Australian area and a palm grove. It was a fun way to spend a few hours and have a picnic lunch.

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The Children are Blogging!

Charlie and Flora have been tasked with keeping up with homework while away on our trip.  Their teachers at Chatuauqua Elementary school have been AMAZING, compiling lots of math worksheets to do, plus some guided reading and writing activities.  AND…it was suggested that the kids start blogging as a way to practice their writing skills and as a way to keep in touch with family and friends while away.

SO…HERE are Charlie and Flora’s first blogs!

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